Showing posts with label Nathaniel Adams. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nathaniel Adams. Show all posts

Glenn O’Brien, King Cool

This post, our memorial to Glenn O'Brien, appears on Natty's "Lives of the Dandies" blog also.

Try writing about Glenn O’Brien without using the word “cool.” Might as well describe the ocean without mentioning water. Glenn was so unassailably, impeccably, motherfuckingly cool you’d glance at the thermostat when he walked in the room. Glenn’s coolness was cosmopolitan and manifold, like the renaissance-man portfolio of jobs he juggled throughout life. He was all kinds of cool: stylish cool, cultured cool, witty cool, and just plain laid-back breezy cool. If someone were to say “don’t lose your cool,” they could just as well have said “be more like Glenn O’Brien.”

Glenn’s coolness seemed innate – one could no more imagine him getting ruffled or flustered than picture him running to catch a bus. He’d wait for the next one, no sweat. Or hail a cab. Or hitch a ride. Or steal a bicycle. Whatever way, it’d be cool.

Speaking of Glenn & transport, one of the coolest things I can recall involves Glenn and a Metrocard. Glenn wrote the introduction to my and Rose’s first book “I am Dandy.” The artist Peter McGough had put us in touch with him. Glenn was skeptical of the project at first, but he liked Rose’s photos and – much to my delight – my writing, so he agreed. He also put us in touch with Bergdorf Goodman, who ended up hosting our launch party. Glenn only showed up at the very start and only for a few minutes. There are only a couple of photos of him there, one of him gamely standing next to your truly, the beaming young author. In his left hand are both a champagne glass and a Metrocard.

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It’s just the kind of too-perfect detail that handily affirms Glenn’s reputation as a man at home in the high and the low. Was he really just on his way out and thought it prudent to whip out his train fare before taking the elevator downstairs and walking two whole blocks to the station? Or had he just arrived and absent-mindedly neglected to put it away? Had he forgotten his wallet?
Or was it a deliberate move? I wouldn’t put it past Glenn. Perhaps a code – a subliminal signal – to the other partygoers that he couldn’t stay long: just the sort of social trigger Glenn would have noticed when nobody else had. Or could it be a clever accessory to confirm his outsider-insider aura, casually holding a proletarian artifact while surrounded by unabashed luxury, a reverse of Evelyn Waugh walking a mile to mail a letter from a fancier post code.

Glenn was in some ways like a character from one of those earlier Waugh satires. I don’t know if Tom Wolfe had much contact with Glenn, but I imagine he might have been jealous to see realized in flesh the sort of city society character he sometimes struggled to invent. Better still, the phrase “too cool for school,” didn’t apply to Glenn because he was such a valiant opponent of ignorance, anti-intellectualism, and pretense.

To a young writer with broad cosmopolitan tastes and interests, Glenn was an inspiration and refutation of the vogue for specialization. Interviewing him was daunting – as with masturbation you always got the sense the chap could have just done it better himself. Still, he smiled and thanked you when it was over. And that smile! Glenn could always deliver a devastatingly handsome look to camera with his beaming double-barreled blues sitting above his notorious cheekbones, but when he smiled the eternal teenager shone forth. Here was Tom Sawyer and Mark Twain in whole.

For a young man, Glenn’s patented aphorism-laden brand of laid-back masculinity was a breath of fresh air: unapologetic yet unburdened with musk and machismo. Glenn was a cool dude in Chuck Taylors or bespoke brogues, a t-shirt or a tuxedo, a beard or bare-faced. In the same way he was always implausibly plausible as both elder sage and puckish rapscallion. He even made a couple of passing remarks that suggested he didn’t think I was such a bad dresser, either, which is a bit like the Pope saying “Hey, nice miter.”

Whenever I saw Glenn at an event and said hello there was always a moment or two when I was struck by the fear that he didn’t recognize me. I’d feel nervous, prepared for the embarrassment accompanied by his unreadable poker-faced gaze. Then he’d always do something like turn to the person next to him – the sort of person who thinks being cool does mean not remembering young writers’ names – and say “This is Natty. He wrote a great book about dandies.”

If there were a heaven, St. Peter wouldn’t even need to check the guest list. Every bouncer knows Glenn’s invited to the party. And in the unfortunate event of Glenn’s sins tipping the scales in the other direction, hell would surely soon freeze over from all that cool.



Photographs were taken by Rose Callahan at Glenn's home in New York City on June 25, 2013



Artist/Rebel/Dandy at RISD - Last Chance!

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Patrick McDonald at the opening of Artist/Rebel/Dandy, April 2013

The wonderful Artist/Rebel/Dandy exhibit at the Rhode Island School of Design Museum is up only till Aug 18, so I implore you:  GO!

It is a very special exhibit years in the making, the likes of which we won't see again any time soon.  Anyways, make a little road trip to Providence - it's a great town!  Have some clam cakes and a Narragansett beer, then go enjoy the amazing array of suits and artifacts collected to celebrate the history, style, and character of dandies past and present.  You will see three prints there by me!

Enjoy these photos of the opening weekend festivities!  There are a lot more here.

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Waris and Natty in front of their ensembles at the exhibit opening.  Suits by Against Nature, naturally.

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Tom Wolfe makes a cameo

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I looked longing for most of the time at Fred Astaire's white tie and tails.

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The gala dinner took place at the historic Providence Public Library

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Natty finally got to meet Dr. Andre Churchwell

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Favorite photo of the night:  Churchwell's oyster colored dinner jacket. Wow.

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Ignacio Quiles and Iké Udé chat after the gala dinner.  

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After the tweed ride, out front of the RISD Museum

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My portrait of Doran graces the entrance to the main exhibit hall.

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Guy Hills and Dashing Tweeds were prominently displayed in this section devoted to tailoring and craftsmanship.  Notice my portrait of Hugo Jacomet on the far right (and below).

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And to find out more about the Artist/Rebel/Dandy exhibit check out this great video Andrew Yamato made for A Suitable Wardrobe.

Natty's View

Visiting James Sherwood in Bloomsbury, London

Artist Paolo Canevari in front of his 1940s Japanese hand painted screen, NYC


Night shooting with Winston Chesterfield around his picture perfect neighborhood in Westminster.

The writer, Nathaniel "Natty" Adams, and I have been having a wonderful time on new shoots for the book.  He finds the same joy in discovering amazing characters and stories as I do.  In recent months we have been in high gear, and have been on most of the shoots together, interviewing and photographing at the same time.  It's extra fascinating to be able to hear their stories as I shoot, because normally I'm kind of quiet and focused.  Certainly whole books could be written on individual men!  

Taking a look back at all the shoots as I edit them for the book has raised the question, what do all these men have in common - and, essentially, what defines a dandy for this project?  There are a lot of differences, but seemingly just as many similarities.  I've certainly tried to avoid hard and fast answers in favor of the view of an explorer into a new world.  But the question has come up time and again, and because I've never been able to "answer" it,  it has propelled me deeper into the project.  I've been so immersed, and now I am attempting to try to understand what someone new to the series or concept might think.   I would love to hear your thoughts - if you have just stumbled across this, or have been following from the beginning - what are your definitions, what are your questions, why is it so hard to define?  

All photos by Natty, of course!



London is Dandy

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Natty and Winston Chesterfield, London, March 2013

Here on a quick trip to London to catch more dandies and exquisite gentlemen...A good time indeed!

The Book: It's Official!

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Natty and I went over to the beautiful lobby of the Waldorf Astoria to sign the contract for our book project with Gestalten, a prestigious international art and design publisher out of Berlin.  That's right, folks:  A BOOK!  I'm smiling ear to ear right now, can you tell?

A book to be published this fall 2013, with photos by me, of course, and text by Natty.

You, my dear readers, will be hearing a lot about this in the coming months...and we are already dreaming of the plans for the launch party :)  Can you imagine?!

Ok, back to work, lots of work.

012813_9234__lores C'mon get happy.  @nattyadams after signing our big contract.

Dandy Talk: Mise en Place

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Thomas, Nathaniel, Matt, Dandy Wellington, and Enrique, NYC, Oct 2012

Last night we readied ourselves for the big Dandy Talk this Friday.  The National Arts Club is expecting a maximum capacity crowd (yipee!).  So we all hobnobbed about our take on dandyism, manners, personal style, and how it all connects.  As per usual Natty had some perfect quotes and historical references at the ready.  

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The most serious I've ever seen Matt.  Deep in discussion about Beau Brummell, no doubt.

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When we were saying goodbye, the variety of neckwear, color, and patterns struck my eye.

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You are Invited - Dandy Talk on Oct 5

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Please join me for a lively conversation with a few of my favorite like minded friends and colleagues for a talk about how we all have cultivated an interest in dandyism in the modern world.   What a great chance to meet, get dressed up, and sip gin & tonics!

Speakers (besides me!) will be:
Matt Fox of FineAndDandyShop.com
Nathaniel "Natty" Adams - writer and manager at Against Nature
Thomas P. Farley - "Mister Manners"
The talk will be moderated by David Zyla, Emmy Award-winning costume designer, author, and chair of the National Arts Club Fashion Committee

After the talk we can enjoy the vintage jazz of my friend Dandy Wellington and His Band

Cocktails so generously provided by Hendrick's gin

UPDATE:  RSVP is closed for this event by overwhelming response!

RSVP:  fashionspeakfridays@gmail.com




A Dandy Talk - Save The Date, Oct 5, 2012

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I can't tell you how delighted I was to be asked by David Zyla, Chair of the National Arts Club Fashion Committee, to speak about The Dandy Portraits and dandyism along with a few of my closest colleagues next month.

Please save the date of Friday, October 5, 2012.  The talk will be from 6-8pm and undoubtedly cocktails and hob-nobbing will ensue afterwards.

This is a super special event for me, in such a fantastic location...so I would love to see all of you!

A Good Evening

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Just a few snaps from a good evening spent with a crew of fine dressed men.

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Nathaniel "Natty" Adams in his new suit from Doyle Mueser

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Mr. Haar, of The Ragged Phonograph, tries to hypnotize me.

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And "The Kid" Davis, trumpet player for Dandy Wellington's band
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