Showing posts with label reportage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label reportage. Show all posts

Fancy Meeting You

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Summer is almost here.  The jacket colors are getting lighter, and the boaters and linen have made their way out of storage.  In New York we have about 3.5 days that are just about perfect before the “wet wool blanket” descends on the city.  The last couple days have been those days.  Everyone’s out and I’ve gotten to meet quite a few new people!

At the Jazz Age Lawn Party on June 14 it was a bit of an International Club.  First I met up with Yoshio Suyama, a barber originally from Japan now based in Toronto.  He told me he is from a small town in Japan, and made his way to London to study to be a barber.  He arrived not knowing any English and learned it (in 2 years!) by watching the movie This is England again and again.  It gave him a great accent, but he had to “unlearn” some rude colloquialisms.  Can you imagine?!

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The dapper barbers meet - Yoshio and Mike Haar

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Simon was visiting from Stockholm with his lovely girlfriend Jessica. 

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The Enforcers...of fun!  Sorry that was bad...anyways, moving on.

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Now, to Jersey City, NJ, my I am Dandy co-author Natty's beloved neighborhood.  On June 12 we had a book signing party, this time hosted by Another Man’s Treasure.  On our way over from the train we ran into Natty's friend and local bespoke tailor DeCarlos, who you see here.  Natty says he's always riding around (on that great bike!) impeccably turned out.

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Denny Balmaceda, creator of the vintage menswear blog Look Rich Shop Cheap, in the doorway of Another Man's Treasure.  He's been blogging since 2007 about how to make the most of thrifting and vintage.  People always ask me if the dandies are rich, or if you have to have a lot of money to dress the way they do.  Of course you don't...but you will have to get creative, and it will probably take quite some time to gather.   I can see that Denny fully embraces this sensibility, and, above all, likes the challenge of a good find.    

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One of my favorite couples, Bill Webb and Eva Kobus-Webb.  You can tell they have fun.

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And finally, I got to meet Philippe Grenade, a director and filmmaker who I had a great time chatting with at the book signing.  Notice the thumbs!

2013 - A Year of Beauty, Elegance, and Creativity

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Always the perfect glass of champagne at Mister Burton's

I'm sure you've all had the experience where there aren't words to describe how you feel - perhaps it's love, perhaps it's hate, perhaps it's a strange cocktail of many feelings at once?  At this moment I have no words to describe the deep gratitude I have for all the amazing people, opportunities, experiences I've been able to enjoy this year.  What a year 2013 has been!

For dramatic effect I must tell you that in May I got married to Kelly Desmond Bray, the love of my life, and the man who inspired me to first start The Dandy Portraits.  At the same time we were planning the wedding I was contacted by Gestalten to do the book, I am Dandy.  Well, I thought, ok, this is how it's gonna happen.  Alright let's go!  The book happened very quickly, so right off of the tails of the wedding, planning for the launch parties in London, Paris, New York kicked in to high gear.  There were so many people that helped with the parties and promotions - and this has been a big reason why the book is a success.  I can honestly say this - because I am Dandy is in it's second printing!

I want to profoundly thank Kelly, Natty Adams, Gestalten - Sven Ehmann, Lina Kunimoto, Gieves and Hawkes, Ray Fensham, Tony Sylvester, Steven Hitchcock & Celia, Hugo Jacomet, Lorenzo & Massimo Cifonelli, Massimiliano & Sorrel Mocchia di Coggiola, Rocco de Robien of Très Honoré, David Zyla & Chris Poe, The National Arts Club, Bruce Boyer, Glenn O'Brien, Bergdorf Goodman, Amber & Jake of Against Nature/Doyle Mueser, Matt & Enrique of Fine & Dandy Shop.  

One of the greatest moments I had this year was at my wedding when I looked up during the reception and realized how intensely beautiful everything was.  It sounds silly, but it was just one of those rare moments.  I'm privileged to experience such beauty and my greatest joy is to record it.  Kelly and I have decided to dedicate our lives to Beauty, Elegance, and Creativity - so that is my wish to you in this New Year!

Enjoy these photos from Massimiliano & Sorrel's recent trip to New York, and the party Mister Burton had in their honor.

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Cleverley Bespoke: Dandy Enablers

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The George Glasgows, father and son,  NYC,  Oct 2012

Cleverley bespoke shoes are works of art.  Like little sculptures I can be enjoy for the sheer beauty of it...because I (probably) will never wear them, or own a pair.  They don't make ladies shoes.  I asked, of course, when I met the father and son team at the helm of the legendary bespoke shoemakers of London on their most recent visit to New York.  They smiled at the question.  But a lady can appreciate, can't she?  

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I was charmed by the stories of George the elder.  Not surprising - he is known to be a colorful storyteller.  It helps so I can be quiet and watch.  But I naturally like to hear stories.  When he starts to talk he gets a little smile on his face and his hand rests itself  on his chest just under his lapel.  It could be Napoleonic, but instead it's very relaxed.

Glasgow told me how he started out long ago apprenticing George J Cleverley, and eventually came to own the company, and about how a lot of young people are interested in bespoke shoes now, but sometimes want them as quickly as they want everything else.  The old timers, though, the lords and royalty who have always been customers, never mention anything as pedestrian as time, or, god forbid, money.  A simple note is passed to announce the shoes are ready for pick up, and that is all.

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Much love and mending.  Made in July 1980, this pair shows wear, but I'll bet they feel great!

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The signature "suspiciously square toe" styling.

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It might seem odd - that this customer is smelling the shoe, but not if you knew why...

They are made from the famed Russian reindeer leather that has been rescued from the cargo of a 1786 shipwreck.  How utterly romantic, how rarefied.  Even though this exclusive material has been mentioned by many blogs and magazines, it really does still have an air about it.  And the smell…in person…I loved it.  It should be a cologne, if that's even possible.  It's incredibly masculine and smells of smoky leather and metal.

They made a hefty travel bag from it as well.   I wouldn't mind this for my guy, not at all.


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Alex Rodriguez came by for the fitting on his first pair of shoes.   Hopefully this marks the end of trainers?

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Cleverley, as you can imagine, has been enabling dandies for decades: current bon vivants Tom Wolfe and Ed Hayes, Andre Churchwell, as well as those legends from the past like Bunny Rogers (he liked those difficult button up boots that require a contraption to get into them), and "aristocratic aesthete" Baron De Rede.

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All the while I was hearing the stories from the elder, George Jr was talking with clients, checking in with his phone, arranging fittings, and fluttering back and forth between all the rooms of the presidential suite getting orders ready for customers.  He's the new generation, and quite business minded and tech savvy.  That's a great compliment to the legend of Cleverley - and I wish the Georges all the best!


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