Artist/Rebel/Dandy Exhibit at RISD

Doran Wittelsbach, San Francisco, 2009

Is 2013 the year of the Dandy?

Kate Irvin and Laurie Brewer, curators of the new exhibit Artist/Rebel/Dandy certainly think so.  But for them it's been more like "The Years of the Dandies".  This is something we have in common, having both been working on parallel projects about dandyism for the last several years.  I was able to meet up with these talented ladies last fall about the exhibit, and am honored to have three large prints included in the show set to open April 28 and on view until August 18, 2013 at the Museum of Art and the Rhode Island School of Design.  It'll be a dandy summer for sure!

The opening festivities are in kicking into high gear - opening gala, dance party, and first tweed run in Providence! Check out their schedule and facebook page for more info.

Massimiliano Mocchia di Coggiola, Paris, Sept 2011 

This exhibit has it's heart in the right place, as far as I'm concerned. For one, the initial inspiration was the late Richard Merkin. And although their focus is on fashion and textiles, which many of the exhibits on dandyism have been, they see the men who wear the clothes as being the driving factor of meaning. The clothes are the artifact of the amazing life lived. The dandy - who is the artist, the rebel - is the revolutionary force driving us forward. They don't try to fit in with anyone else, they don't try to be a dandy, they just are. Their nature is to be on the vanguard, and because they cannot stand to go along with the crowd, they innovate by default. Why did Guy Hills start making Dashing Tweeds? Because he wanted the colors and prints that no one made anymore (or ever!). Again and again this theme repeats in the stories of the men I have photographed.

So all hail the year of the Dandy! Capped off, of course, by my book debut in the fall!

More from the exhibit...Love seeing this vintage shot of Mark Twain in a linen suit next to Massimiliano!

Alvin Langdon Coburn, Mark Twain, 1908. 

Shirt (detail), late-18th century. Linen plain weave with cotton ruffle. 

Les Manteaux, published in Gazette du Bon Ton (vol. 12), 1913. Bernard Boutet de Monvel, illustrator.

Four-piece suit worn by Michael Strange (pseudonym of Blanche Oelrichs), ca. 1928. Brooks Uniform Co., tailor, New York, est. last quarter of 19th century. Wool crepe coat with silk velvet collar, wool crepe trousers, cotton velvet waistcoat, silk plain weave dickie.  

Dandy Talk - My View

My view from the stage at the Dandy Talk on Oct 5, 2012

Left to right:  Matt Fox, me, David Zyla, Thomas P. Farley, and Nathaniel Adams

A hearty "thank you" to everyone who came out to the Dandy Talk event last Friday a the National Arts Club!  It was an overwhelming turn out, and everywhere I looked I saw smiles of friends, colleagues and curious strangers.  When I think back to when I started The Dandy Portraits, I could not have imagined that I would be at such fulfilling evening - with so many people interested in a subject that has fascinated me for years.

Special thanks to David Zyla for envisioning the evening, my fellow panelists, my very good friend Naomi White for photographing, and of course Dandy Wellington and His Band and Hendrick's Gin for keeping the party going.

Did I mention the super smart crowd?  They asked some great, thought provoking questions - about how things like ethnicity, sexuality, and class come into play with dandyism, what the connection might between vintage enthusiasts and dandies, and if there can be female dandies?



One of the great delights for me was getting big prints made for the first time!  I printed eight images 20x30 inches, and I think they can go even bigger - BIGGER!   I can see the exhibition now, can't you?

We screened the short film on Sean Crowley I made with Kelly for Rarebit Productions, and a trailer for our new short on Dandy Wellington.

Bruce Boyer (center) spinning a good yarn with Shannon Hill (far left) and tailor Len Logsdail and his wife.

Adorable Matt Fox before we went on stage.  

Patrick MacDonald, always a pleasure to see you!  Sorry I took such a bad shot...

I was happy to finally meet the designer Ignacio Quiles.

The men who inspired me to start The Dandy Portraits - Allen Crawford, AKA Lord Whimsy, and my guy, Kelly Desmond Bray


The Doyle Mueser connection:  Natty, Amber Doyle, Mike Davis, Jake Mueser, Dandy Wellington



And why not a little portrait session in a forgotten corner of the beautiful Tilden Mansion?  Keith Tritto and Jamesy were happy to oblige.

Do I look happy or what?!

You are Invited - Dandy Talk on Oct 5

Please join me for a lively conversation with a few of my favorite like minded friends and colleagues for a talk about how we all have cultivated an interest in dandyism in the modern world.   What a great chance to meet, get dressed up, and sip gin & tonics!

Speakers (besides me!) will be:
Matt Fox of FineAndDandyShop.com
Nathaniel "Natty" Adams - writer and manager at Against Nature
Thomas P. Farley - "Mister Manners"
The talk will be moderated by David Zyla, Emmy Award-winning costume designer, author, and chair of the National Arts Club Fashion Committee

After the talk we can enjoy the vintage jazz of my friend Dandy Wellington and His Band

Cocktails so generously provided by Hendrick's gin

UPDATE:  RSVP is closed for this event by overwhelming response!

RSVP:  fashionspeakfridays@gmail.com

Dandyism.net Interview

They called me "Wild Dandyish Rose", which I kind of like.  Thanks to Mr. Mattis for his interest in the project and the opportunity to state my case in praise of exquisite gentlemen.

Michael Mattis flashing the Elk's sign in Shroeder's Restaurant, San Francisco, Oct 2010

Le Noeud Papillon interviews me!

I was interviewed by Nicholas Atgemis of Le Noeud Papillon, who makes beautiful silk bow ties and men's accessories.  If you ever had questions about the project (Who was the hardest person to convince to be part of The Dandy Portraits?) this may be a good read :)

Dandy Portraits in Paris: Massimiliano Mocchia di Coggiola

The one and only Massimiliano Mocchia di Coggiola.  The lure of stories I heard about his style, his home, his grand life, brought me to Paris.   What an experience it was!

Italian born Massimiliano and his lovely American wife Sorrel gave a warm greeting, and I began to try to take in all the details.  Walking into his space I felt the Parisian architecture - the height of the ceiling, the strong sunlight filtering through tall narrow windows, the ornate molding.  They talked about how much they loved to throw parties, and I imagined what a fantastic place to come to at night and get lost.  One can feel distinctly that living is a fine art for this young couple, and dressing, above all, is the highest art for Massimiliano.



There is a whole room dedicated to Massimiliano's interest in dandyism.  As a historian and author he has fantastic collection of rare books and ephemera which share space with his collar pins, cologne, cufflinks, top hats, and at least one powdered wig.   I began making portraits, and once we were done with one suit Massimiliano would duck back into his dressing room - which is indeed a whole room filled with clothes - and come out with another more exquisite than the last.



I asked him to show me his oldest book on dandyism: "Du Dandysme et de Georges Brummell" by J. Barbey D'Aurevilly, published in Paris 1879



In the sitting room, a photo of actor Conrad Veidt peeks out from behind layers of assemblage, religious artifacts, feathers and bones.



When Sorrel brought out a tray of coffee served in the most delicate little vintage set, I wished that time would stop so I could always live in that moment.



A gold signet ring bears his family's crest.



Illustrations by Massimiliano hang along side portrait paintings by Sorrel and art collected from various friends.