The Dandy of New York, Patrick McDonald

Patrick McDonald is larger than life - truly, fantastically.  His extravagant style is legendary, and has been recorded by many just as legendary photographers and artists (um...Bill Cunningham, Scavullo, Robert Richards!).  I knew from the beginning that The Dandy Portraits would not be complete without Patrick.  Of course when the rare opportunity came to finally meet him - at his home - I was more than a little nervous and insanely curious to find out what this man - who revels in being a dandy - is really like.

Over the phone Patrick, in his sweet urbane voice said, "my place, it's a bit bohemian", with a laugh.  I was charmed and even more intrigued.  So I headed over to his place with Mat Fox of Fine and Dandy Shop to investigate - or rather just to have some fun.  Matt just posted his interview here.

Beyond the top hats and eyebrows and blue velvet is a gentleman who understands the importance of good manners and character; he understands that the way one lives his life is an art, just as much dressing for each day is.  And in true dandy fashion, he cultivates a unique beauty in the most unlikely of environments.  With joy he quoted Bill Cunningham, who's documentary he appeared in, "He who seeks beauty will find it".


Artists need their muse.



Hats by Rod Keenan fill his kitchen

Dandy Portraits in Paris: Mickael Loir

Mickael Loir at home, Paris, Sept 2011

He lives in a garret apartment up six flights in an old Paris building, probably one that would be common place to a Parisian, but to us, the Americans, it made us giddy with excitement. That afternoon was uncommonly warm and humid, and in the sky it could plainly be seen the reason why. We got in and said hi, and barely caught our breath and started snapping away when the thunderstorm broke. But it was so beautiful to watch it pour outside while he played the scratchy 78 on the his rickety electric phonograph. How could a moment be more perfect?

This is the universe of Mickael Loir.

I could sense the spirit of Paris in him and his surroundings - the history of surrealism and dada, of artists and whimsy, and of elegance. He showed me his creations - ribbon bow ties, lapel pins, and cufflinks made from vintage watch faces. It might be surprising, then, to find out he has a rather normal day job. I asked him if he dresses the same at work - because although it is not offensive to be elegant, it can be distracting. He says that he slowly got them accustomed to it - a collar here, a bow tie there - so now he dresses as he pleases. Although his look is very vintage, it is a mix of old and new, high and low. And in a city in love with fashion, he prefers to cut labels out of his clothes. But he is quick to say that it's not just the clothes; it's also the universe that one creates - friends, art, a crazy awesome thoroughly impractical English car, a bit of green on the otherwise grey terrace - that bring style to the whole endeavor.





I was reminded of dadaist Tristian Tzara




The vintage MG was just purchased and driven from UK to Paris a few days earlier, just in time for the rain...

Catching up with Natty

Nathaniel "Natty" Adams, NYC, Sept 2011

It was nice to catch up with Natty, the dandy journalist, and tell him all about my great European adventure.  He understands.

I'm editing up a storm here, back in Brooklyn, by the way.  Eleven photo shoots from Paris and London!!

Natty's shoes herald the fall...

The Bespoke Process with G. Bruce Boyer and Leonard Logsdail

Part two of my visit to Len Logsdail bespoke tailor with G. Bruce Boyer shot for A Suitable Wardrobe.  Bruce gave me the tour and Len, a jovial Brit, seemed to have a good time showing me all the details of his top notch organization.

The front of the house at Len Logsdail has a clubhouse feeling where it seemed perfectly natural for fellas in the business or just in the neighborhood to stop by and have a friendly chat.   This was quite refreshing, and started to make more sense when I entered the modest back room - where everything happens.  Each of his bespoke suits or pants or dinner jackets is made from start to finish in that room.   It is decidedly the opposite of how most clothing is made in the world today, which is, of course, the larger story of our era.  This process takes time and incredible expertise, and I believe that even though the cost of such finished items seems extravagant to most, the business model of the bespoke tailor is not the best way to make a (quick) fortune.  (see the trouble Savile Row has had)  It is more about tradition and craftsmanship and masculine luxury, and art in my eyes.



The staff at Len's know very well that an important part of what they do is psychological - finding out how a man wants to present himself to the world.  They know what the nuances of cut, fabric, and all those infinite details can communicate.   Bruce was having a great time showing me all the lavish choices.





The intricacy of hand stitching that forms the foundation of the jacket.



Bruce having a laugh with Len in the work room.  Don't mess up that cut Len!



Leonard Logsdail, Tailor, NYC, August 2011



The shears come out - and Len shows me how the tailors traditionally keep their shears is good working order...





Len searches through his patterns to find a few gems I will recognize from his movie work.