Dandy Portraits in London - Barima

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Barima Owusu-Nyantekyi photographed by Rose Callahan in London, Sept 2011

You have no idea how tough it has been to hold back on posting the rest of my work from Paris and London last year!  I want to have some unpublished work for "the book", now don't I?  But, I'm getting tired of waiting so here goes…My day with Barima in London!

I met up with Barima the last day in London, the last moments in fact, on the recommendation of Winston Chesterfield.   Barima's a tall fellow of Ghanaian heritage with the droll sense of humor and the charm of a true Londoner.  He has a way with words, being a writer and copy editor, and his personal blog, Mode Parade - a "Sartorial and Pop Culture Dissection Column", is were we can find his unique point of view on life and style. 

Barima's style references and inspirations - he is the self described "Don Cornelius-Fred Astaire lovechild" - are as diverse as Bunny Roger, Walt 'Clyde' Frazier, Tommy Nutter, Brian Jones, David Niven, and Sammy Davis Jr., to name a few.  And it somehow all makes sense when you see Barima.   His father "sent him on this thrill ride" of developing his personal style;  he started out by wearing his old pieces, but has since become particularly astute at acquiring items from sources as diverse as the inspirations I listed.  Just take a look at his portraits, and the notes he has provided for each of his pieces.  Man knows his stuff, or rather, he takes joy in all of it.


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Double breasted jacket - unknown Italian tailor from the 1980s or '90s; possibly the house of Angelo Roma, which was a favourite of my father's. This one is indeed a hand-me-down and was part of a suit; I discarded the trousers for being unflattering.

Silk shirt - Deborah & Clare.  A splendid bespoke shirtmaker in operation in Knightsbridge, London, during 1965 - 1975, comparable to the likes of Turnbull & Asser (its former owner was a client of both houses), but with the adventurousness of their former creative alum, Mr. Fish.


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Necktie - Boggi reversible silk knit.  A present from my dad, the two sides of which I find representative of my conservative and flashy dichotomy.

Tie pin - An Ashanti design representing our tribe's values, passed down from my late grandfather.  (Note: after our shoot Barima sadly thought he lost the pin, but it has since been recovered, thankfully!)

Boutonnière - RoseParadise.co.uk

Bootcut trousers - Prada.  As soon as I purchased the slip-ons (pictured), I knew that I would need the right sort of trousers to go with them. And then these beauties, likely from spring-summer 2008, appeared in a shop I frequent the very same week.


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Cuban heeled suede slip-ons - John Lobb Ltd. The cordwainers on St. James kindly dug into their books for me and found that they were part of a large order made for a notable Indian magnate in 1973; I've also seen this man's old Anderson & Sheppard suits in a variety of interesting fabrics for sale and I would own them had his arms not been shorter than mine. Still, because of him, I now own the best shoes I have ever danced in and have contracted a taste for a higher heel, to boot.

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Eyeframes - Monarch by Ultra.  It's old Hollywood/Jewish businessman/1970s - '80s politician/Elton John-like glamour that isn't going anywhere fast. At least for me.


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You are Invited - Dandy Talk on Oct 5

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Please join me for a lively conversation with a few of my favorite like minded friends and colleagues for a talk about how we all have cultivated an interest in dandyism in the modern world.   What a great chance to meet, get dressed up, and sip gin & tonics!

Speakers (besides me!) will be:
Matt Fox of FineAndDandyShop.com
Nathaniel "Natty" Adams - writer and manager at Against Nature
Thomas P. Farley - "Mister Manners"
The talk will be moderated by David Zyla, Emmy Award-winning costume designer, author, and chair of the National Arts Club Fashion Committee

After the talk we can enjoy the vintage jazz of my friend Dandy Wellington and His Band

Cocktails so generously provided by Hendrick's gin

UPDATE:  RSVP is closed for this event by overwhelming response!

RSVP:  fashionspeakfridays@gmail.com




Ivy Style at FIT

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Richard Press at the Ivy Style exhibit opening at FIT, Sept 14, 2012

It was a fun night out at the opening of the Ivy Style exhibit at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.  I got to see some friends and make new ones.  Bruce Boyer introduced me to the legendary Richard Press (Press as in J. Press) and I took him aside to make a few portraits.   How could I not?

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G. Bruce Boyer and Richard Press collaborated on the Ivy Style exhibit, along with deputy director of the MFIT, the very talented and beautiful, but not pictured, Patricia Mears.  

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Also at the opening was the photographer Bill Cunningham, who seemed like he was having a great time chatting with fashionable friends and not eating the hors d'oeuvres.  I was too nervous to introduce my self!  Kind of silly, I know.

I love this last shot of Richard Press.  Turns out he is an actor too!
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A Dandy Talk - Save The Date, Oct 5, 2012

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I can't tell you how delighted I was to be asked by David Zyla, Chair of the National Arts Club Fashion Committee, to speak about The Dandy Portraits and dandyism along with a few of my closest colleagues next month.

Please save the date of Friday, October 5, 2012.  The talk will be from 6-8pm and undoubtedly cocktails and hob-nobbing will ensue afterwards.

This is a super special event for me, in such a fantastic location...so I would love to see all of you!

Portraits de Dandys


Dandy Magazine, a French publication, recently did an article on me, and when I received the copy I was blown away at how beautiful it was printed.  Gorgeous.  Also, my name is on the cover (!) - yep, lower right.  Of course I immediately put the text thru google translate, which was hilarious.  Must learn French.  {UPDATE:  see Nathan's translation below!}

Soooo, they asked me to send over a few more portraits for the next issue also!  Look out for upcoming issues, which also include articles by my friend Hugo Jacomet of Parisian Gentleman.




Fast Eddie Hayes

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Ed Hayes at home in Manhattan, March 2012

How do I describe Ed Hayes?  Legendary New York lawyer?  Really, he is just legendary.  Tom Wolfe dedicated Bonfire of the Vanities to him:
"Doffing his hat, the author dedicates this book to counselor Eddie Hayes, who walked  among the flames, pointing at the lurid lights"
I was having drinks with a few menswear enthusiasts the other night - a couple of them legends themselves - and someone mentioned "Fast Eddie".  I asked who is this, how do I not know them?!  Well, it was Ed Hayes they were talking about (only good stuff, Ed).  He knows just about everyone, and has seen just about everything.  Lucky for us he wrote a memoir a few years ago so we can get the whole story:  Mouthpiece: A Life in -- and Sometimes Just Outside -- the Law

I was introduced to Ed thru Sven Raphael Schneider of the Gentlemen's Gazette, who featured him recently, along with a selection of my photos.   It gives a lot more background and context than I will here at The Dandy Portraits, so do check it out.  Here, I want to show you the clothes, the colors, the ostentatious details, the overflowing closet, the character, and the charm of Ed Hayes.  

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It's what's on the inside that matters.  Purple satin.

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Heading up to his closet to change, Ed walks passed a painting by his friend the late Richard Merkin, and vintage black and white crime scene photos.

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No space is wasted in Mr. Hayes closet.

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Vibrant colors, braces, and the dimple in his tie - always the dimple.

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The tips of these bespoke shoes are monogrammed with the initials of his children

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Just a cast iron dragon at his front door.  Better make an appointment.

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He has his tailors build the collar so it does that thing he likes - kinda curve a bit.

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He asked me if I wanted to see the first shoes he ever had custom made.  Sure do.  With years of care they still wear well.  Ed started spending his money on clothes as soon as he had any.

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Finishing touches..the pocket square and a few hard looks in the mirror.

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A photo hangs in his bedroom of the late Richard Merkin, Hayes, and Tom Wolfe.  Below is a framed letter from Tom Wolfe signed "Your herald, Tom"

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Back to the business...dueling smart phones, calming the rich and powerful and in trouble.
Thanks Ed!
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