A unique opportunity to geek out on dandyism, menswear, personal style vs trend, and if there really is a "return of the elegant gentleman". Love it or hate it, let your viewpoint be known!
Showing posts with label G. Bruce Boyer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label G. Bruce Boyer. Show all posts
Ivy Style at FIT
Richard Press at the Ivy Style exhibit opening at FIT, Sept 14, 2012
It was a fun night out at the opening of the Ivy Style exhibit at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. I got to see some friends and make new ones. Bruce Boyer introduced me to the legendary Richard Press (Press as in J. Press) and I took him aside to make a few portraits. How could I not?
G. Bruce Boyer and Richard Press collaborated on the Ivy Style exhibit, along with deputy director of the MFIT, the very talented and beautiful, but not pictured, Patricia Mears.
Also at the opening was the photographer Bill Cunningham, who seemed like he was having a great time chatting with fashionable friends and not eating the hors d'oeuvres. I was too nervous to introduce my self! Kind of silly, I know.
I love this last shot of Richard Press. Turns out he is an actor too!
A Suit for the Skyscrapers
Always a treat to see English tailor Steven Hitchcock on his regular visits to NYC. I love how his suit matches the rainy day grey skyscraper view. Check out the excellent interview with him over at Simply Refined.
On this visit I came by to chat and snap a few while Bruce Boyer had a fitting for his jacket. Don't the notes Steven scribbled remind you of a doctor's prescription?
Bruce Boyer and Steven Hitchcock, NYC, Jan 2012
Stephen Pulvirent of Simply Refined
This dapper young man is Stephen Pulvirent of the blog Simply Refined. I met him a few days ago when he was visiting from Chicago. As luck would have it we were both stopping in to say hi to Bruce Boyer while he signed books at the Paul Stuart store. We all continued the evening at the Blue Bar by the Algonquin Hotel, and listened to Bruce tell his tales. Stephen's blog is elegant and a great read about gentlemanly endeavours. As Stephen puts it, "a gentleman doesn’t just dress with style, he lives with style". Of course, I agree.
Steven Hitchcock: A Bit of Savile Row in NYC
The dapper gent here high above Lexington Avenue is Savile Row master tailor Steven Hitchcock on his last visit to NYC in October 2011. He makes several visits each year to meet clients and do fittings, and to do his part to bring a bit of the Row to the city. Bruce Boyer thought I would enjoy his personal flair, as well as his unique story of, essentially, growing up on Savile Row, and learning his craft from the legends at Anderson & Sheppard. Check out his story here.
Here are a few glimpses of Steven's amazing duds, and his temporary atelier in the Benjamin Hotel. Behind the scene was Steven's lovely girlfriend, Celia. They welcomed me warmly and good laughs were in abundance.
Doing a bit of alterations for a last minute fitting. Steven is the son of John Hitchcock, head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard, and he began as an apprentice coat maker there when he was 16. At the time Steven thought he might work as a mechanic, but after getting a taste of the sometimes star-studded world of A&S, he thought otherwise. After years learning his craft at A&S he set out on his own in 1999.
Dr. Churchwell takes Manhattan
Dr. Andre Churchwell, the esteemed cardiologist from Tennessee, recently visited NYC, and Bruce Boyer thought we should meet. I think he was right! Here you see Dr. Churchwell sporting his "mill suit" inspired by the Duke of Windsor, and tailored by Leonard Logsdail. This suit makes a terrific impression, and it seems to have become quite legendary - I mean, it has it's own name! He likes to add vintage touches - like these bright yellow felt braces and tie bar - but prefers bespoke suits, as do his two brothers whom I have yet to meet (but you know I will!).
The frames he wears are bespoke, too, inspired by glasses Cary Grant once wore. This detail goes only part way to describe Dr. Churchwell's fine-tuned fascination with classic films, and the clothes worn by those legends of style. And as we walk we talk about how being a gentleman is not just in how a person dresses, but in their actions - or as Dr. Churchwell puts it - in their civility to each other.
Stopping in for a visit to his longtime tailor, Len Logsdail.
I just love these amazing embroidered vintage braces! The suit and colors are classic and a bit understated, and then open up the jacket and voila! Having fun, but always the gentleman.
The Bespoke Process with G. Bruce Boyer and Leonard Logsdail
Part two of my visit to Len Logsdail bespoke tailor with G. Bruce Boyer shot for A Suitable Wardrobe. Bruce gave me the tour and Len, a jovial Brit, seemed to have a good time showing me all the details of his top notch organization.
The front of the house at Len Logsdail has a clubhouse feeling where it seemed perfectly natural for fellas in the business or just in the neighborhood to stop by and have a friendly chat. This was quite refreshing, and started to make more sense when I entered the modest back room - where everything happens. Each of his bespoke suits or pants or dinner jackets is made from start to finish in that room. It is decidedly the opposite of how most clothing is made in the world today, which is, of course, the larger story of our era. This process takes time and incredible expertise, and I believe that even though the cost of such finished items seems extravagant to most, the business model of the bespoke tailor is not the best way to make a (quick) fortune. (see the trouble Savile Row has had) It is more about tradition and craftsmanship and masculine luxury, and art in my eyes.
The staff at Len's know very well that an important part of what they do is psychological - finding out how a man wants to present himself to the world. They know what the nuances of cut, fabric, and all those infinite details can communicate. Bruce was having a great time showing me all the lavish choices.
The intricacy of hand stitching that forms the foundation of the jacket.
Bruce having a laugh with Len in the work room. Don't mess up that cut Len!
Leonard Logsdail, Tailor, NYC, August 2011
The shears come out - and Len shows me how the tailors traditionally keep their shears is good working order...
Len searches through his patterns to find a few gems I will recognize from his movie work.
G. Bruce Boyer at Len Logsdail
Distinguished menswear writer and journalist G. Bruce Boyer sat for a portrait (originally for A Suitable Wardrobe) at his "home away from home", Len Logsdail's bespoke atelier in NYC. He then gave me a wonderfully spirited mini tour of the bespoke process at Len's, and we chatted about his new book on Gary Cooper, dandyism, and his epic obsession with menswear. He says he supposes other men have obsessions that cost much more in every way, so what harm is his keen interest in clothing?
I ask him what I have been asking all of my subjects for The Dandy Portraits in some version or another, "How do you define dandyism? And would you consider yourself a dandy?" He says that he considers rock stars to be the only people closest to being dandies that we have today, because they live thoroughly thru style. This is an interesting take I have never heard before. So of course he does not consider himself a dandy. I would say that almost all of the other men I have photographed do not consider themselves dandy. That is totally ok, and even makes me more interested. Maybe I should just give up trying to define it? Maybe it doesn't matter? So I ask him, then what word do we have to describe a man who has a great affinity for dressing well? We both can't really answer that. Who likes labels anyways?
Somewhat conservative in dress, but not in politics.
When picking a fabric for a jacket you have to see it on a larger scale than just swatches.
Bruce implores me to feel this feather weight cashmere. Whipped cream puffy cloud goodness.
Discerning eye in the fitting room. Not sure what he's looking for, but I like the intensity.
Ok, so the one below shows more of what it was like to be in the room with Bruce. He probably won't like me using this one, because it shows his jacket to be very stiff (which it isn't) and without his "drape" (see close up).
Ok, this is where it gets fascinating for me...Bruce has this "Scholte drape cut" (ref: ASW) built into his blazers! To make a more relaxed look. To someone who wasn't in the know, they might think it was ill fitting, but no, oh no, it is done with intention. I think this is great!
Again with great clarity, Bruce described how he likes to look a bit disheveled. He even tugged at his blazer a bit as we photographed to feel right. In his clothes he said he liked to feel comfortable enough to take a nap, and unfussy enough to just get up and go. So I said let's photograph you taking a nap! Voila!
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