Showing posts with label Ivy Style. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ivy Style. Show all posts

The Cary Collection: The Dandy Edit

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Thomas Cary of The Cary Collection, NYC, Nov 2012

As a photographer I have to rely on my instincts to guide me in split seconds.  Sometimes I don't even know consciously what I'm looking at.  And upon editing I can finally see what was actually there, what my eye found interesting.  In the case of The Cary Collection you see documented here, the hour or two I spent went by in a flash, and I felt like I barely had a chance to look.  So much to take in!  But now we can look as along as we please, and if you could blow up these photos to full size you would get lost in the details.

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Mr. Cary tells me he was a "passionate and precocious" collector from an early age, and attributes his interest in aesthetic things to his late father, who was an avid art collector, and served on the board of The Albright-Knox Art Gallery in Buffalo, New York, where Mr. Cary grew up.  His mother, as well, was a collector of classic English furniture and antiques.  He remembers their lavish cocktail and dinner parties:  "My parents had a fabulous coterie of colourful friends whom I strived to emulate both sartorially as well as how graciously they lived in their glamourous surroundings"

While growing up he became enamored of old Brooks Brother's catalogues and Esquire Magazines, and equally influenced by mod TV shows of the day like The Avengers and The Persuaders.  Young Thomas fashioned his bedroom after John Steed's London bachelor flat, and even considered attending butler school in London to become a private butler in a UK estate household, because he "loved the regal concept".  However,  it seems the dreams of an exciting life as a butler were short-lived…but can you imagine?

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I knew partly what to expect, because of articles and great photographs already made by Unabashedly Prep, Fine Young Gentleman, etc. over the last few years.  Still…it was quite an experience to be in the space surrounded with bright saturated wonderful things, but hardly being able to move.  I actually got a light in there, not sure how (?!?).  And then the stories!  I'm a big fan of anecdotes, and Mr. Cary did not disappoint;  he had the history and provenance for all pieces available at an instant, I assume without effort.   He is as delightfully eccentric as his collection.   If you know The Dandy Portraits, you will know this is the real reason I went.

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There was no way he was going to miss the opportunity presented by a chance encounter with Sir Sean Connery on the streets of Manhattan.

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Cary custom mats and frames most of his artwork to give it his own look.

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Thomas Cary has a collection that seems to know no end.  But it is saved from being "hoarding" by being such an incredible wonderland of pinpointed Americana.  It is the America of New England WASP culture and symbolism, sailing, thoroughbreds, Newport estates, Ivy League insignias, prime 20th century New York City nightlife and social diary, bachelor pad cocktail culture, 21 Club artifacts, lawn jockey lamps, all awash in go-to-hell preppy colors.   Mr. Cary has a point of view, a color palette, and it evokes a time and place, creating a powerful nostalgia.

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For Mr. Cary, the collection is obviously an obsession (and perhaps his own work of art?), but the collection is also his business.  He sells by appointment, and at select retailers, such as Bergdorf Goodman.  The Cary Collection now encompasses 15,000 rare books, 700 works of art, and 1,200 pieces of vintage objects, many of which are now accessible on their just launched global website:
thecarycollection.com


Ivy Style at FIT

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Richard Press at the Ivy Style exhibit opening at FIT, Sept 14, 2012

It was a fun night out at the opening of the Ivy Style exhibit at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology.  I got to see some friends and make new ones.  Bruce Boyer introduced me to the legendary Richard Press (Press as in J. Press) and I took him aside to make a few portraits.   How could I not?

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G. Bruce Boyer and Richard Press collaborated on the Ivy Style exhibit, along with deputy director of the MFIT, the very talented and beautiful, but not pictured, Patricia Mears.  

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Also at the opening was the photographer Bill Cunningham, who seemed like he was having a great time chatting with fashionable friends and not eating the hors d'oeuvres.  I was too nervous to introduce my self!  Kind of silly, I know.

I love this last shot of Richard Press.  Turns out he is an actor too!
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G. Bruce Boyer at Len Logsdail

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Distinguished menswear writer and journalist G. Bruce Boyer sat for a portrait (originally for A Suitable Wardrobe) at his "home away from home", Len Logsdail's bespoke atelier in NYC.  He then gave me a wonderfully spirited mini tour of the bespoke process at Len's, and we chatted about his new book on Gary Cooper, dandyism, and his epic obsession with menswear.  He says he supposes other men have obsessions that cost much more in every way, so what harm is his keen interest in clothing?

I ask him what I have been asking all of my subjects for The Dandy Portraits in some version or another, "How do you define dandyism?  And would you consider yourself a dandy?"  He says that he considers rock stars to be the only people closest to being dandies that we have today, because they live thoroughly thru style.  This is an interesting take I have never heard before.  So of course he does not consider himself a dandy.  I would say that almost all of the other men I have photographed do not consider themselves dandy.  That is totally ok, and even makes me more interested.  Maybe I should just give up trying to define it?  Maybe it doesn't matter?  So I ask him, then what word do we have to describe a man who has a great affinity for dressing well?  We both can't really answer that.  Who likes labels anyways?

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Somewhat conservative in dress, but not in politics.

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When picking a fabric for a jacket you have to see it on a larger scale than just swatches.

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Bruce implores me to feel this feather weight cashmere.   Whipped cream puffy cloud goodness.

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Discerning eye in the fitting room.  Not sure what he's looking for, but I like the intensity.

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Ok, so the one below shows more of what it was like to be in the room with Bruce.  He probably won't like me using this one, because it shows his jacket to be very stiff (which it isn't) and without his "drape"  (see close up).

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Ok, this is where it gets fascinating for me...Bruce has this "Scholte drape cut" (ref: ASW) built into his blazers!  To make a more relaxed look.  To someone who wasn't in the know, they might think it was ill fitting, but no, oh no, it is done with intention.   I think this is great!

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Again with great clarity, Bruce described how he likes to look a bit disheveled.  He even tugged at his blazer a bit as we photographed to feel right.  In his clothes he said he liked to feel comfortable enough to take a nap,  and unfussy enough to just get up and go.  So I said let's photograph you taking a nap! Voila!

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At the Campbell Apartment

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Christian Chensvold at the Campbell Apartment, NYC, Jan 2011
Mr. Chensvold was one of the founders (along with Michael Mattis and Nick Willard) of dandyism.net, which for about five years, beginning in 2004, created articles and aggregated info about past and present dandies.   In 2008 he founded Ivy Style, a blog dedicated to a nostalgic view of collegiate fashion and lifestyle.

Although it is hard to define what is a dandy, Chensvold would probably agree he has always been very much on the "trad" end of it.  Because of his work with dandyism.net I think he is an important part of the story of dandyism as it has been expressed over the last decade.

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