Do You Know Scavini?

Massimilano Mocchia di Coggiola and Julien Scavini, Paris, Sept 2013

On our last visit to Paris - for the I am Dandy book launch - Massimiliano invited Kelly and I to meet his tailor...and irresistible prospect!

We walked up the exceptionally wide open, and very-quiet-for-the-middle-of-the-day Boulevard La Tour-Maubourg around the corner from Les Invalides.   From the clear view on the boulevard we could spot Massimiliano several streets away walking quickly towards us with his happy gait.  He joined us and we went in to meet Julien Scavini, proprietor of Scavini Tailleur.  I don’t think any of you would blame me if I expected to see an old Italian man hunched over a work table, would you?  Who we met was a gracious, fresh-faced young French man who has set up a fastidious and charming menswear atelier.  His specialty is made-to-measure, which he has made by a small family workshop in, get this, northern Italy!


I ask him what he thinks of the word “dandy”:  “The true dandy is a myth, a fictional character. It is an idea, an essence. The dandy embodies the perfection of nothingness, emptiness. It is an art. And like any perfection, it is not of this world, but the world of ideas and concepts.  I prefer the term gentleman for men dressed elegantly. That said, for Massimiliano or Mickael Loir, the term gentleman is wrong, while dandy is best ... funny!”


Scavini’s passion for tailoring developed after he came to Paris (from his home town of Biarritz) to study architecture.  As a lover of classical architecture, towards the end of his studies he grew weary of the over emphasis on removing “old thinking”, and using technology to innovate.  He always loved menswear, so he decided to do his thesis about a Hackett shop.  “It was very funny,” He says.  After his graduation he started an apprenticeship with master tailor, André Guillerme-Guilson.  He spent a year with Guilson at the l'Association de Formation Tailleur learning the art of tailoring, and, although he is not a cutter, he can make a jacket “from A-Z” by hand.


Scavini brings this keen understanding of tailoring, and a very discerning eye for detail not only to his shop, but to his blog Stiff Collar, which he started in 2009 while studying with Guilson.  Stiff Collar is a wealth of information and inspiration, and what you will immediately notice - even if you don’t read French - are his charming illustrations.  Scavini tells me started drawing during his architecture studies, ironically using his ArchiCad software to express the universe that inspired him - 1930s England, Hercule Poirot, classic tailoring, etc.  With their thick black outlines, one can see his artwork has been inspired by classic comics like Tintin, Blake and Mortimer, and illustrator Jean-Claude Floch.  Small framed prints of a selection of his artwork are on the walls of his shop, and it adds to the ambience - classic, understated, and a little modern in that practical way I like.

Scavini Tailleur
50 Boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg

75007 Paris

Apart from visiting Stiff Collar, you can see Scavini’s illustrations in Figaro Magazine, and in a soon to be released fully illustrated book on classic wardrobe (title and link to come!).  He also will star as a tailoring specialist in an upcoming French TV show called Cousu Main (Hand Sewn), an adaptation of the English reality/game show The Great British Sewing Bee.  It premieres Aug 30, 2014 on M6 in France.  It appears we will be seeing and hearing a lot from Julien Scavini!

2013 - A Year of Beauty, Elegance, and Creativity

Always the perfect glass of champagne at Mister Burton's

I'm sure you've all had the experience where there aren't words to describe how you feel - perhaps it's love, perhaps it's hate, perhaps it's a strange cocktail of many feelings at once?  At this moment I have no words to describe the deep gratitude I have for all the amazing people, opportunities, experiences I've been able to enjoy this year.  What a year 2013 has been!

For dramatic effect I must tell you that in May I got married to Kelly Desmond Bray, the love of my life, and the man who inspired me to first start The Dandy Portraits.  At the same time we were planning the wedding I was contacted by Gestalten to do the book, I am Dandy.  Well, I thought, ok, this is how it's gonna happen.  Alright let's go!  The book happened very quickly, so right off of the tails of the wedding, planning for the launch parties in London, Paris, New York kicked in to high gear.  There were so many people that helped with the parties and promotions - and this has been a big reason why the book is a success.  I can honestly say this - because I am Dandy is in it's second printing!

I want to profoundly thank Kelly, Natty Adams, Gestalten - Sven Ehmann, Lina Kunimoto, Gieves and Hawkes, Ray Fensham, Tony Sylvester, Steven Hitchcock & Celia, Hugo Jacomet, Lorenzo & Massimo Cifonelli, Massimiliano & Sorrel Mocchia di Coggiola, Rocco de Robien of Très Honoré, David Zyla & Chris Poe, The National Arts Club, Bruce Boyer, Glenn O'Brien, Bergdorf Goodman, Amber & Jake of Against Nature/Doyle Mueser, Matt & Enrique of Fine & Dandy Shop.  

One of the greatest moments I had this year was at my wedding when I looked up during the reception and realized how intensely beautiful everything was.  It sounds silly, but it was just one of those rare moments.  I'm privileged to experience such beauty and my greatest joy is to record it.  Kelly and I have decided to dedicate our lives to Beauty, Elegance, and Creativity - so that is my wish to you in this New Year!

Enjoy these photos from Massimiliano & Sorrel's recent trip to New York, and the party Mister Burton had in their honor.

In Paris...

Mickael Loir and Massimiliano Mocchia di Coggiola at Cafe Nemours, Paris, Sept 2013

I've been in Paris a few days, seeing old friends and making a few new ones.  Soon enough I'll be back in NYC, so I'm trying to just enjoy the moments...like this one.  

On Sept 30 will be the Paris launch of I am Dandy with two celebrations!  More on that on the I am Dandy facebook page.  

Dandy Portraits in Paris: Massimiliano Mocchia di Coggiola

The one and only Massimiliano Mocchia di Coggiola.  The lure of stories I heard about his style, his home, his grand life, brought me to Paris.   What an experience it was!

Italian born Massimiliano and his lovely American wife Sorrel gave a warm greeting, and I began to try to take in all the details.  Walking into his space I felt the Parisian architecture - the height of the ceiling, the strong sunlight filtering through tall narrow windows, the ornate molding.  They talked about how much they loved to throw parties, and I imagined what a fantastic place to come to at night and get lost.  One can feel distinctly that living is a fine art for this young couple, and dressing, above all, is the highest art for Massimiliano.



There is a whole room dedicated to Massimiliano's interest in dandyism.  As a historian and author he has fantastic collection of rare books and ephemera which share space with his collar pins, cologne, cufflinks, top hats, and at least one powdered wig.   I began making portraits, and once we were done with one suit Massimiliano would duck back into his dressing room - which is indeed a whole room filled with clothes - and come out with another more exquisite than the last.



I asked him to show me his oldest book on dandyism: "Du Dandysme et de Georges Brummell" by J. Barbey D'Aurevilly, published in Paris 1879



In the sitting room, a photo of actor Conrad Veidt peeks out from behind layers of assemblage, religious artifacts, feathers and bones.



When Sorrel brought out a tray of coffee served in the most delicate little vintage set, I wished that time would stop so I could always live in that moment.



A gold signet ring bears his family's crest.



Illustrations by Massimiliano hang along side portrait paintings by Sorrel and art collected from various friends.