Showing posts with label bespoke. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bespoke. Show all posts

Rory Duffy - Bespoke in Brooklyn

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Rory Duffy, bespoke tailor, Brooklyn, March 2013

Just around the corner from me, and a few flights up, is a gem of a Savile Row trained tailor, Rory Duffy, who has recently established himself in New York City.  Andrew Yamato introduced me to the young Irishman, and I had a good time chatting with him about his work and the suit he made that won the prestigious Golden Shears award, all the while drinking a good bit of prosecco.

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Rory shows us the suit he made that won the Golden Shears 2009, the UK's highest prize for tailoring.  Oh, just an amazingly crafted frock coat with kilt (!) and waistcoat done in a blue window pane (that Dr. Andre Churchwell might find familiar).  Please, someone create an occasion just so this suit can be worn, and I can attend!

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Behind the unassuming brick facade there is a real craftsman at work, and Brooklyn should be glad to have him!

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Fine Day

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Dr. Keith Churchwell in NYC, Jan 2013

Catching that elusive fading light on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan.  It changes right before your eyes, and you gotta enjoy it while it lasts - or try to get it on "film".  The portrait is very hopeful, so I'd like to offer it as clear look forward into our coming year.

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Cleverley Bespoke: Dandy Enablers

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The George Glasgows, father and son,  NYC,  Oct 2012

Cleverley bespoke shoes are works of art.  Like little sculptures I can be enjoy for the sheer beauty of it...because I (probably) will never wear them, or own a pair.  They don't make ladies shoes.  I asked, of course, when I met the father and son team at the helm of the legendary bespoke shoemakers of London on their most recent visit to New York.  They smiled at the question.  But a lady can appreciate, can't she?  

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I was charmed by the stories of George the elder.  Not surprising - he is known to be a colorful storyteller.  It helps so I can be quiet and watch.  But I naturally like to hear stories.  When he starts to talk he gets a little smile on his face and his hand rests itself  on his chest just under his lapel.  It could be Napoleonic, but instead it's very relaxed.

Glasgow told me how he started out long ago apprenticing George J Cleverley, and eventually came to own the company, and about how a lot of young people are interested in bespoke shoes now, but sometimes want them as quickly as they want everything else.  The old timers, though, the lords and royalty who have always been customers, never mention anything as pedestrian as time, or, god forbid, money.  A simple note is passed to announce the shoes are ready for pick up, and that is all.

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Much love and mending.  Made in July 1980, this pair shows wear, but I'll bet they feel great!

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The signature "suspiciously square toe" styling.

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It might seem odd - that this customer is smelling the shoe, but not if you knew why...

They are made from the famed Russian reindeer leather that has been rescued from the cargo of a 1786 shipwreck.  How utterly romantic, how rarefied.  Even though this exclusive material has been mentioned by many blogs and magazines, it really does still have an air about it.  And the smell…in person…I loved it.  It should be a cologne, if that's even possible.  It's incredibly masculine and smells of smoky leather and metal.

They made a hefty travel bag from it as well.   I wouldn't mind this for my guy, not at all.


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Alex Rodriguez came by for the fitting on his first pair of shoes.   Hopefully this marks the end of trainers?

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Cleverley, as you can imagine, has been enabling dandies for decades: current bon vivants Tom Wolfe and Ed Hayes, Andre Churchwell, as well as those legends from the past like Bunny Rogers (he liked those difficult button up boots that require a contraption to get into them), and "aristocratic aesthete" Baron De Rede.

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All the while I was hearing the stories from the elder, George Jr was talking with clients, checking in with his phone, arranging fittings, and fluttering back and forth between all the rooms of the presidential suite getting orders ready for customers.  He's the new generation, and quite business minded and tech savvy.  That's a great compliment to the legend of Cleverley - and I wish the Georges all the best!


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Autumn in New York...Churchwell Style

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Dr. Andre Churchwell in Central Park, Oct 20, 2012

Well look who came to visit right before the big storm - before all the leaves were blown away? Why it was Dr. Churchwell, of course!  He could be called the flaneur of Central Park here.  

Autumn in New York, why does it seem so inviting?  The song by Vernon Duke performed by Ella Fitzgerald is our soundtrack today....

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What I most enjoy about Dr. Churchwell's well developed style is that he's bold with color and comes up with the most wonderful combinations...and he has so much fun with it.  It takes a creative eye to see color this way.

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Clothing notes:

Hat:  custom made pinch crown pork pie styled after Fred Aistaire
Suit:  bespoke maroon window pane by Len Logsdail, in a hacking style with turn back cuffs and slanted pockets
Shirt:  custom shirt from Turnbull & Asser
Tie:  Drake's from FM Allen in Nashville
Pocket Square:  Drake's for Alan Flusser
Vest:  with lapels in suede
Shoes:  Northampton by Stephen Kempson
Glasses:  Ralph Lauren


Seersucker Summer with Dr. Churchwell

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Dr. Andre Churchwell, NYC, May 2012


Phone rings

Me:  Hello...

Voice:  Hi Rose, it's Andre Churchwell....(insert niceties)...I'm coming to Manhattan for the weekend with the family, and it would be great to see you again!  I'll be wearing a really marvelous pink seersucker DB with a straw boater to the symphony on Saturday....

Me:  When and where?  I'm there!

This is the life of an exquisite gentleman...causing a stir in with the rarely-done-because-thoroughly-impractical double breasted seersucker.  Almost as impractical as the three piece seersucker worn by Natty Adams.


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Outside the Plaza Hotel...quite the classic Hollywood look.

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Striking color combination on this Mogador tie Churchwell helped design with Anthony T. Kirby

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Then we snuck some photos inside near the gorgeous Palm Court...

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First Look:
Hat: Brooks Brothers Italian straw boater
Suit: bespoke pink/white seersucker double breasted suit
Shirt: Steve Kempson NYC
Tie: Bruer
Shoes: Peal white leather wingtips
Socks: Paul Stuart

Second Look:
Hat:  Worth and Worth porkpie coconut hat with the wide linen band - "Frank Sinatra’s – Cavanaugh Hat model of the 1950’s"
Jacket:  Len Logsdail houndstooth jacket with leather covered buttons attached by a shank - "coat done in 1930’s sport coat model"
Shirt: David Mercer and Sons
Tie: Anthony T. Kirby
Trousers:  bespoke full cut cream garbardine trousers
Shoes:  Polo/Ralph Lauren two-tone spectators, white buck with brown leather cap toes
Bag:  Bergdorf Goodman :)


A Suit for the Skyscrapers

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Always a treat to see English tailor Steven Hitchcock on his regular visits to NYC.  I love how his suit matches the rainy day grey skyscraper view.  Check out the excellent interview with him over at Simply Refined.

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On this visit I came by to chat and snap a few while Bruce Boyer had a fitting for his jacket.  Don't the notes Steven scribbled remind you of a doctor's prescription?

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Bruce Boyer and Steven Hitchcock, NYC, Jan 2012
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